Sound, Strength, and Appearance.

Each and every piece of wood is unique, both in sound and in appearance. It is very difficult if not impossible to make two different dulcimers look and sound exactly alike... so I don't even try. In fact, I strive to make each dulcimer look different than any other I have built and yet sound fantastic (believe me, it would be a lot easier to find one combination that worked great and use it over and over again... but where is the fun in that?). So in respect to appearance, I like variety and I am always looking for new woods to use in new ways. When selecting a board, I examine its grain patterns, it's coloring, it's dimensions, (and it's cost), and decide how that particular piece of wood will best be used.

In selecting woods for the top, "sound" has to be considered more so than for any other part of the dulcimer. There are certain species of woods that are considered tonewoods, and among them I use Spruce, Redwood, Cedar, and occasionally Walnut. Each of these wood species have distinct general sound characteristics, yet no two pieces of wood will sound alike. In general, the best sounding tops will be of tight straight grain (quarter sawn). Spruce is usually the best sounding, followed by Cedar or Redwood (assuming straight tight grain) If sound is not the most important aspect to a customer, then he/she may decide for "Interesting" Redwood or on Walnut because it can be quite beautiful. All in all, the top tends to determine the "priorities" as far as looks and sound.

The Back is the 2nd most important part in regards to sound. A redwood or cedar back actually acts something like a 2nd sound board (top) and results in a dulcimer with very high volume and sustain. The only potential problem to this is that this combination is usually louder in the highs and weaker in the lows... not by much, but enough for me to notice a trend. The stronger highs results in a "bright" dulcimer, best suited for a mainly strumming style of play. Using a hardwood back will not be as loud, but helps to even out the sound spectrum making the highs, mids, and lows all more equal. This is a design well suited for a fingering style of play or a player who strums but uses chords... instead of just playing the melody string(s).

In choosing the sides, I go strictly on appearance. This is because my method of making the sides results in all of them being acoustically the same. When choosing side woods, I try to compliment the other woods in the dulcimer. I find that if the top sets the tone for "sound" then the side wood sets the tone for "looks." Fancy sides and plain top/back doesn't look quite right, nor does fancy tops/backs and plain sides. However a combination of plain sides and a plain top/back done correctly makes for a very clean, simple beauty that can be quite nice. On the other end, overuse of "fancy" (fancy sides, fancy top, fancy back, and more) can possibly be too much without something to tie is all together. It's a fine line.

These same looks and sound considerations must be addressed when choosing the woods for the head/tail and for the fingerboard.

As far as strength and stability, I have learned to not use softwoods in places where strength is required (such as the fingerboard), and I avoid woods that do not glue well or respond poorly to temperature and environmental fluctuations.

My final consideration in choosing woods is actually cost. I try very hard to keep my prices reasonable so that most anybody can afford a Tom Yocky Dulcimer if they really want one. I try to offer more than what you will find from factories making dulcimers. I try to offer more beautiful and interesting woods, but for no more cost. To do this, I shop carefully and look for inexpensive sources for my materials. I buy individual boards that are well sized for what I will use them for so I minimize waste. I take great pleasure in "rescuing" a beautiful piece of redwood or cedar from becoming just another fence post or deck plank. Sorting through stacks of boards at my local home improvement store to find the "jewels." Where else will you find somebody offering woods like Zebrawood, Bubinga, or Afrormosia for as little as I charge? By shopping carefully, I am able to pass on the savings to my customers.

Once the woods are selected, I then build the parts of the dulcimer.